For all of you out there that are grumbling about the ever rising price of gasoline, how many of you have truly considered ways that will save your precious fuel. Sure, you probably considered car pooling or maybe are even actively doing it. Others will swelter in the summertime, afraid that using the air conditioner will increase the amount of fuel that is consumed. The question is have you ever considered if your tires are costing you gas money?

When your tires are correctly inflated, it can save you money. If your tires are under inflated, they are pliant and cause too much friction with the road. This causes your engine to work extra, driving up your gas needs. If they are too soft they can lower your gas mileage by .4 percent for every pound in drop of pressure. According to the Department of Energy, correctly inflated wheels can increase your gas efficiency by 3 %. When your wheels are correctly inflated they will offer you a smoother ride, better vehicle handling, and better gas mileage. If you don’t know what the proper pressure is for your car, you can find that information on the inside of the glove compartment, or your car manual. The label will list a PSI, and you should use the highest number possible to increase your gas efficiency. Not only should your wheels have the right PSI, they should also be evenly inflated.

When cold weather rolls around, your wheels will need some TLC. When the temperature drops 10 degrees your tire pressure drops 1 lb, which adds to the rolling resistance. If the pressure drops quickly, it is recommended that you check your tire pressure with a store bought PSI gauge.

Correct tire alignment will also help in gas economy. Your wheels should be aligned at least once every 12 months. If your wheels aren’t lined up straight they will drag and not roll correctly, which adds to the resistance and increases your gas consumption. Balancing your wheels is a good idea too. When your car’s tires are out of balance you will feel strong vibrations as you steer. These vibrations will lead to a shortened suspension life and uneven wear on your wheels.

When you rotate your wheels you are saving even more money at the pump. When your wheels are rotated you are distributing the wear more evenly throughout all 4 wheels. You can find the recommended rotation for your vehicle in its manual. The type of tire you choose for your car also affects your car’s gas economy. Before you replace your wheels you should take into consideration the kind of car you have and which wheels will do the best job. Consulting the owner’s manual is a helpful idea that can take the guess work out of tire shopping. The best attributes of a replacement tire are low rolling resistance and durability.

When your wheels are properly maintained you will see a difference at the pump, putting more money in your pockets and less gas in your tank!

How to make Wax

Today bee’s wax is sometimes used in Automobile waxes but normally it is most used in furniture wax and polishes. You can make your own wax very easily, my ancestors did on the plantation on Cape Cod, it is a relatively simple process and fun too.

First you need a couple of pots to boil in and a pot of hot water. Liquid Beeswax furniture polish is simple, use one quarter cup of ivory soap, one quarter pound of beeswax, 1 cup of turpentine and half a cup of water. Dissolve the soap in hot water, put the shaved wax into the turpentine and then slowly melt together, then pour the soap mixture into the mix and stir with a wooden spoon, once well stirred pour it into a glass jar and you have it, very easy. Bees wax cream furniture polish which can also be used on cars with lessened amount of turpentine is made by using and mixing quarter lb of beeswax, 2 cups of turpentine, quarter cup of liquid Ivory soap, 1 cup of warm to boiling water and quarter cup of pine oil. The only difference it you have to make sure all the beeswax is dissolved first and cool then mix it into the warm soapy water until it congeals and then reheat together and dissolve. If you reduce the turpentine content you can use it on your car too. It goes on smooth and it works good.

Although, I am partial to Carnauba wax for cars for it’s ease of use, but from a realistic standpoint of protection the carnauba only lasts three months while the beeswax melt might last slightly longer. For solid beeswax furniture polish, which is preferred by the antique dealers we met on the back roads of NH, VT and Maine, all you do is use equal amounts of linseed oil, beeswax and turpentine. The finished product is golden brown and see through and looks rich in content. Now you have lemon oil smell in furniture polish, which can easily be added to the boiling water during the process.

There are many good waxes to use on cars that you would not put on surfboards, furniture or statues. Wax is found in the human ear also. There are two different types and your genetics dictate which one you have. Most plants have a thin protective coating of wax also. Most fruit and citrus trees and vegetables plants have wax on the fruit, leaves and vegetables they produce that we eat. Many animals and even some fish also organically produce waxes. Other wax components are found in minerals and petroleum products and distillates.

There are Polymer or synthetic, manufactured by man into various types of waxes. We get waxes from a variety of sources really. The Carnauba we discussed is a preferred wax by many detailers. Carnauba wax is on the leaves of the carnauba palm trees. The best Carnauba wax comes from in my opinion the Palm Trees of Brazil. You can tell a good carnauba wax by the water beads up as you see when you detail your car. Candelilla wax comes from a plant that grows in parts of Mexico, Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Guatemala and sometimes in the southwestern United States. It is a brown wax and not only have people used it on cars it is used in phonograph records, floor dressings, and candles. Although it is the major component of candle wax, it is mixed in with other waxes normally in the candles we use in our homes.

They finally got it right. The first time I saw a Honda was in a hotel parking lot. There in the sun was a miniature car, bright red, gleaming with chrome and polished like a Rolls Royce in drag. I couldn’t believe the quality of paint compared to the American equivalent a la Falcon, Chevy II and Plymouth Dusters. A week of dedicated browsing turned up a 1979 Honda Civic Coupe five speed with the celebrated CVCC engine. Zero to sixty in nine seconds and thirty-five miles-per-gallon to boot. The engine purred like a sewing machine and revved to seven thousand RPM. Of course it was RED and it went 100K miles without repair.

I had been considering replacing my eleven-year-old Honda Accord Coupe that boasts of 169K trouble-free miles. The 2000 Honda Civic HX Coupe possessed every feature I could wish for except remote keyless entry, cruise control, and a motor with enough power. I guess the powers-that-be paid attention to the wishes of the public, because all of these features are included in the 2001 Honda Civic HX model including an amazing automatic transmission with an infinite number of gears, 41 MPG on the highway, electric door locks, positionable steering column, power mirrors, high filtration air conditioning, aluminum wheels and an in-dash CD/cassette/radio.

After waiting two months for an HX in Clover Green Pearl, I finally took posession of my new 2001 Honda Civic. The interior is ten per cent larger than last year, raising it into the compact category. The engine is ten per cent more powerful, yet weighs seven pounds less. Many cars are more beautiful like the Acura CL, Porche Boxter, and the VW Passat, but none can claim the luxury of a new, soft, but road holding suspension, ergonomic perfection (everything important is within reach), and with gas going up to three dollars a gallon, economical. I will choose the European flavored leaf green metallic paint with a leather-look beige interior. No other car comes close to the Honda Civic HX in planet-saving features (Ultra low emissions) and low cost (under $16,000). In October the new Honda Civics are going on sale. I love the new modern design and the Civic Hybrid is a marvel of automotive invention. But I still love my 2001 Civic and I’ll keep it until one of us dies.

Not really a car nut, but I do polish my Honda every week. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kenneth_C._Hoffman

Give your car a sparkling, clean, streak free finish using microfiber car cleaning products, leaving your car shiny and foreign debris free, without using chemical cleaners.

Microfiber towels with their special technology won’t scratch the paint and can be used naturally without harsh chemicals that can damage you or the finish on your vehicle. Not only will your car be cleaner and shinier, but you will be healthier in the process, and helping to protect our environment by reducing the amount of chemicals we add to our soil and water supply.

Car detailers love microfiber for its cleaning and buffing abilities. Microfiber is great for getting the bugs off, just wet your rag and rub, microfiber has awesome scrubbing abilities. Use a terry microfiber towel for scrubbing and suede microfiber cloth for buffing your car after waxing.

The microfiber suede will glide across the surface and with its natural polish-like friction, requiring very little effort to buff your car. Microfiber suede is the best buffing cloth. With its low nap, the microfiber suede will buff your favorite vehicle, boat or RV to a beautiful shine, while not removing the wax.

Remember the thicker the nap on a microfiber towel the more it will pull in dirt or wax. So you will want to wash with a thicker napped microfiber towel and buff with a low nap microfiber. A towel cannot tell the difference between dirt and wax, as it will remove both.

If you find dust collecting in your car, just moisten a microfiber suede or terry all purpose cloth, lay it onto the surface and slowly pull it towards you. The dirt and oil collecting ability of the microfiber will suck it up and leave you with a spotless finish.

Have a film collecting on the inside of your wind shield, clean it with water or a little of your favorite window cleaner and a microfiber cloth. The microfiber will pull that film right off of there, leaving you will a clean and shiny window.

Got an RV or are an avid camper, take these microfiber cloths along with you for their quick cleanup ability. Microfiber will make fast work of all your cleanup jobs that come your way.

I keep a microfiber towel in our vehicles at all times, to have handy to clean up emergency spills, for wiping off the seats and dash when you accidentally leave your windows open and it rains, or for wiping off a foggy windshield.

Just remember to wash your "rags" after using in hot water and mild laundry detergent with no bleach or fabric softeners, to keep them in tip top shape for years to come. Microfiber also dries faster with lower heat, than the heavier cotton towels, so will save you money, which you can use on your other favorite things.

As a smoker myself, I know how hard it can be to get rid of the smell of cigarette smoke from your cars interior. Luckily, over the years I have found some effective odour neutralising methods which not only work for smoke but for other odours too. I can just hear the nagging words now, "Why don’t you just give up" echoing through my head.

Without further ado, I’m going to explain some of the effective methods of cigarette smoke odour removal I have picked up over the last 12 years of my driving career.

1. Vacuum Seats & Carpet

First off, clear out any rubbish from the car to provide a clear working environment. Pull back seats up and vacuum underneath. Replace back seat and continue to vacuum the rest of the interior - carpets and seats. If your vacuum has a soft brush attachment, use it to clean off dust from air vents and around buttons and switches. Use the crevice tool to remove dust from hard to reach small spaces.

2. Shampoo Upholstery

Use a hot water extraction machine such as the Numatic George which is what i use myself. It is quite a simple machine and has plenty of suction for extracting the dirty water back from the fabric. This particular model retails at around £180 if i remember correctly. Using a shampoo which has anti-tobacco formulas will help to reduce the odour but doesn’t always get rid of it. If a hot water extraction machine is not available, either rent one for little money or use a spray shampoo cleaner from your local auto parts store.

3. Odour Neutralising

To fully remove the cigarette smell, spray on a enzyme based, odour counteracting spray which has living organisms in it which consume the proteins of the smoke odour.

4. Cleaning Plastics

Clean the plastics of your interior with a light household cleaner until all stains and dirt if removed. Soak used ashtrays in the same cleaning agent for an hour or two.

Summary

Following the above steps will prepare your car, odour free, ready for dressing with your chosen polish. Be sure to test chemicals on hidden areas before applying to interior.

To run your car wash business with a profit margin, it is essential to get the right car wash supplies from the right dealers. Car wash supplies include all the accessories necessary for cleaning a car: car soaps, tire cleaners, glazes, polishes, waxes, conditioners and even bill changers, vending supplies, vacuum cleaners, water treatment plants and shampoo units. There are several car wash suppliers throughout the U.S., including those listed below.

Sonny’s Car Wash Factory has a range of car wash supplies that include different types of brushes, brooms, conveyor parts, vacuums and accessories, pump accessories, vending machines for self-serve wash systems and detergent accessories.

The Internet is a store for car wash supplies, and many websites bring to you the best products from the top manufacturers. Buyersmls.com provides a range of car wash supplies categorized by brand names and product applications. Their popular brands include Carrand, Einszett, Meguiar’s, P21 and Porsche. The website provides online ordering and buying for car waxes, polishes, wheel and carpet cleaners, vacuum cleaners vinyl protectants and lubricants.

Beauty Shine Advanced Car Care Products of California manufacture their own range of car wash supplies that cater to all kinds of vehicles and car wash systems. Since 1926, they are a reputed supplier to car wash owners, with products including paste wax, liquid polish, dressings and automotive shampoos. Auto Gloss Wash, Moonshine Liquid Carnuaba Speed Wax, and Chrome and Glass Polishes are some of their products. The Carnuaba wax is unique in that it can be used for processes where polishing is not needed. Easy to apply, this wax protects the paint from fading. They also have exclusive products for special cars, one of which is Frontline Finishing Mist. This product, sold for approximately $7, is a spray that can be applied for removing dust and fingerprints by wiping it onto the car surface.

What is Polish Pottery?

You’ve seen in on the Internet, you’ve seen it on QVC, perhaps you’ve seen select pieces in stores or magazines. What’s all the hub bub about it and what in the world is it?

What is it?

Polish Pottery is a hand-made ceramic pottery that is hand decorated with stamps. Products range from dinnerware sets, serving pieces, bakeware, bowls, containers, tea and coffee services to accessories such as vases, pitchers and cookie jars, to name a few. What makes it distinctive is the beautiful hand-stamped designs.

Polish farmers created these traditional designs with inspiration from the peacock feather. Using the colors of cobalt blue, peacock blue and earth tones added beauty and color to an otherwise plain and simple lifestyle. Over the years the technique of using handmade stencils to create the designs has become a form of art passed down to new generations.

Is it just for show or can I really use it?

Definitely use it! It is some of the best cooking stoneware that I have ever used. I have cooked pies, lasagnas, casseroles and various other meals in them. Cooking with this pottery has exceeded my expectations. Another advantage is that I don’t need to transfer the meal to another "pretty" dish for serving.

One of my male friends asked his wife to buy some of the coffee cups because they kept his coffee warm for a long time.

Is it safe?

Each ceramic dish is made of white clay and is lead and cadium free. The pottery is usable in dishwashers, conventional and microwave ovens. It is also very easy to clean.

IMPORTANT! - Each piece has a category on the bottom. Category 1 pottery is oven safe for up to 425 degrees F and Category 2 is oven safe for up to 325 degrees F. Category 3 and above should only be used for serving.

Where is it made?

The pottery is made in the town of Boleslawiec, approximately an hour and a half drive from Dresden, Germany. If you are in the area, it is definitely worth the trip as you can purchase the pottery for less than half the retail price in the U.S., and there are many more patterns to choose from. I would, however, advise not driving your own vehicle or rental car. I have found the town relatively safe except for the persistent car thefts. You can either hire a driver or take a bus trip. The town has shops all over including the factory where the pottery is made.

Where do I get it?

Fortunately, for those of you that can’t get to Boleslawiec, it can be found on the Internet. One note of caution: having it shipped from Poland can be costly and result in damaged goods. Using a site such as polish-pottery.getdigitalinfo.com allows you to find pieces available to you locally. For those of you from the U.S., you can sometimes find Polish Pottery pieces at stores such as TJMaxx, Marshall’s and Tuesday Morning.

Final thoughts

The pottery is not only beautiful for any table setting, it is also of high quality. You can stick with one pattern, mix and match patterns or just use select accessories with your current dishware. Additionally, polish pottery is a worldwide collectible that retains its value after purchase. It is definitely a pottery that you will want to hand down to your children. Whatever your need, I would highly recommend giving it a try.

Alright. First things first. I don’t guarantee any work you get done to your car or any work you do yourself. If you should mess up your car, well that’s your fault and don’t blame me! Okay, let me start out by saying that I highly recommend getting a body kit installed by an auto body technician or someone who has done body work and feels comfortable completing the necessary work.

If you insist on installing the kit yourself, there are some things to consider.

What color are you going to paint your body kit?
Where are you going to paint?
How are you going to paint your body kit?
Do you have the right tools to install the kit yourself?
And are you going to paint your entire car or just the body kit?(Should you decide to get your car painted professionally, but not get the kit installed, skip the below steps.)

I personally recommend painting the kit the same color as your car, but that’s personal opinion. Body kits can look really sharp if they are combined with vinyl graphics or even other custom paint work to tie the entire car together. I recommend finding your vehicles specific paint codes. Most of them can be found through the DuPont registry or through your local dealer.

Okay. So finding a place to paint is next. Many professional paints are very temperature specific. Should you decide to use one of these, you’ll need some big equipment and some serious painting skills. Also, for the integrity of your paint, find a dry environment that it virtually dust and dirt free. You will get a better smoother paint job in a clean environment. Whether you decide to use an aerosol or paint gun and air compressor, a clean environment is a must. You should also consider investing in a throw away or “keeper” set of paint coveralls. A great deal of dirt can be brought in on street clothes.

Painting is a delicate process that takes time and PATIENCE! Patience is a must and there is no substitute for patience when it comes to painting. The best paint you can buy will look like crap if you don’t take the time and follow the instructions.

Before you begin painting, I highly recommend doing a sort of dry install. Find out where the pieces going, take all of the pieces that need to be removed off your car, and find all of the places you’re going to have to bolt down in order to get a proper fit. Don’t remove any sticky things yet and if needed find the places you need to drill and drill them. Clean up and get your shop ready to paint. It will be much easier to get your pieces on if your car has been prepared before hand.

Depending on what type of paint you’re planning on using can depend on which steps you’re going to have to take, but generally there are only 3. Primer, color, clear coat.

Primer is the foundation of a great paint job. Many body kits come pre-primered, but depending on the paint you’re using you may need to redo the primer. Such as any candy or pearlescent colors.

Color! Yes, its pretty and can be a headache. Color paint is the only reason for a paint job. If we didn’t have color, we’d all be driving around in hideous primer grey vehicles. You will spend a good deal of time on color. If you are doing a candy, you’ll spend even more time on color. There can be many variations on this step. Flash times and layer thickness make or break a paint job at this point. So remember “PATIENCE!”

Clear coat is another great step that can make or break your look. A good clear coat will make waxing and just looking at your car a dream. A bad one will look like someone tried to paint your car with nail polish.

My best advice is follow the instructions on your paint and always spray at a 90 degree angle. Most paints work well with a spray pattern about 6 to 7 inches away from a vehicle. Always spray side to side in an over lapping pattern and never stop on one spot. Should you stop, you’ll get high spots that will not dry correctly and you’ll have a “orange peel” paint job. Should you have an odd piece to paint, take time to mentally pre-paint the spot. Walk your painting route and try to follow your contours correctly. This is all part of that patience step. If you’re going do it, do it with care and patience for the right steps.

Alright. Part 2 of this piece is next and it cover installing the kit once you’ve finished painting it. Thank you for reading.

Click Here for Scion Body Kits and Scion Performance Parts!

Today’s car enthusiast personalizes his or her ride by installing an awesome set of rims and tires. It is not unheard of for the price of these custom add-ons to cost upwards of $1,500 dollars for EACH TIRE! It doesn’t take a math genius to see that times four, putting personalized wheels on your car can be a pricey investment and one that you will want to take care of.

When you take your car in for detailing, you should have already cleaned your tires, at least cursorily. You may find that washing your cars tires will become a common task. This is because they are so close to the asphalt, much closer than the car’s body itself, so they tend to get far dirtier, far grimier, and far faster. Tires suffer the brunt of the abuse that comes from driving, the scum that is caked on the road, dusts from brakes, and good old fashioned tar all combine and cake onto them.

Cleaning and caring for your tires and wheels follows much the same pattern that caring and cleaning for the rest of your car does. You have to wash first, clean, polish, and then protect from future dirt. As you wash your wheels, you will need to use detergent, wheel cleaner, a suitable polish, and then the right sort of wheel protectant.

As you are going through this process, it is most times easiest to break the cleaning down into different stages. First do the left rear rim and its tire, and then move forward to the left front wheel and tire, etc. This saves time as you concentrate your efforts at one location, and then move on.

There is a bit of disagreement about what to do after cleaning both wheels and tires has been done. Some people claim that it is better to detail the tire first, and some people insist that it is better to do the wheel. Our experience tells us, however, that it is best to perform a thorough cleaning of the wheel, and then one of the tires, then polish and add protectant to the tire, before finishing up by polishing and protecting the wheel. This order is the most efficient, we think, because it wipes away any run-off from the polishing of the tire that dripped onto the wheel when you are finishing the wheel up.

No matter how you decide what works best for you, there is a consensus among professionals that it is best to work on one tire at a time. This keeps any of the chemical cleaners or polishes from drying on your tires or wheels, which can cause stains or other damages. Likewise, if your car has been driven recently, make sure that the wheels are cool enough so that they will not cause cleaners or polishes to heat up. Heat makes these chemicals react more violently, which can cause damage to your rims. Magnesium and aluminum rims are especially vulnerable.

The following are some specific suggestions that you may want to consider when restoring a classic 1955 Chevrolet, 1956 Chevrolet or 1957 Chevrolet.

If you have not located a decent classic yet, then start with the best car you can afford. A rusty car will still be a rusty car unless all the rusted sheet metal is replaced. If you can not weld or do paint and body work then by all means look for a solid car. Sometimes you will be better off purchasing a classic that has be restored a few years ago and is in need of a fresh paint job. The best place to look for rust is by checking the condition of the floor pans and braces. Another place is between the rear bumper and trunk area. Take a good look at that bargain classic, it could cost you 1000s of dollars in the long run.

Take lots of pictures and draw diagrams of even the simplest part of any disassembly. Note hardware size, type and location. Months down the road you will be glade you did. Assembly and shop manuals are available on line for Tri-5’s or you can purchase reproduction copies for each of the three years.

Take time to organize and catalog your parts when taking your classic Chevy apart. Don’t just throw nuts and bolts in a bucket for later use. Use zip lock bags and tag each bag as you go and describe its contents. Use small wire tags on larger parts. Clean, sandblast and paint nuts and bolts before assembly.

Order your new parts early, before assembly. Inspect each order to make sure you get what you paid for. If you ordered something new then don’t settle for a used part. Make sure that the mounting hardware is correct and of the right quantity. Don’t throw away any part until you have a suitable working replacement.

Many of the parts found on a classic Chevy are stainless. With a little practice you can take out the minor dents and scratches then polish. Stainless can be buffed to look like new again with a round cloth buffing wheel mounted on your bench grinder and special polish. Chrome on the other hand usually has to be re-platted or new reproduction pieces purchased.

Unless you are a paint and body pro leave this part of the job to experts. Only problem here is that most paint and body shops only like to do quick fender benders. Try to find a shop that only works on old cars. Have them work on your car until its done and inspect the work daily. Save money by taking your classic apart, have a paint and body man do the painting and you put it back together. Good luck with your project even if it is only a dream at this point.